Everyone is off the mountain!

Dave called yesterday to let us know that the rest of the crew is off the mountain. Many of the climbers had flights home yesterday and I believe that they were even able to make their scheduled flights.

It has also come to our attention that Stefan's collapse on the Autobahn (not at Denali Pass as I had thought) might have had more to do with a specialized form of breathing technique that a friend of his who climbed Everest (ergo, a credible source of information on how to climb mountains...?) had recommended. It was a technique called "double pressure breathing."

I'm not sure how it works exactly, but it illustrates two good points: climbing mountains isn't rocket science. You train well, work hard and take big, deep breaths occasionally as you're heading up hill. Don't make more out of it than it is. The results of trying to get too fancy could be that you pass out at 18,00 feet... Secondly, listen to your guides; they know what works up there and have only your best interests in mind when they give you advice.

Well that wraps up the dispatches for this expedition. I hope you've enjoyed them and that they helped you feel a bit more connected to your friends and family who climbed with us. Thanks for your support and thanks for your trust in Mountain Trip.

Todd- out.

The Summit!!!

I just got the news: The team did make the summit the other day!

Apparently, after they assisted Stefan (sorry for mis-spelling your name in previous posts!) they geared back up and headed out of camp at about 2:30 pm. They reached the summit late at night, but in Alaska, in June: it's never dark. They then rested a day before descending.

I believe they are spending tonight at Camp 2 at 11,200'. They'll probably get a very early start so that they cross the lower glacier during the wee hours of the morning, when it is most frozen.

I have to say, climbing up to Denali Pass twice in one day and then going all the way to the summit is a huge day. Those folks are definitely to be heartily congratulated!

Good work!!!

Possible summit!?!

A climber on the summit ridge in mid-June

My apologies up front for my lack of information. Dave Staeheli sent his satellite phone down with one of his assistant guides, Zach Johnson. Zach relayed me a message stating that he was descending from Camp 3 with Stephan, who is doing much better. He also said that he thought that Dave and the crew went back up to the summit two days ago, after assisting with Stephan's descent!

The logistics and workload of managing 8 climbers on summit day are pretty intense, so I can see how Dave might have had his hands too full to contact Zach via radio and notify him of their summit bid. Also, the radios we use up there do not always work between any given "Point A" and "Point B". It's a big, complex mountain and while we would all love blow by blow updates, I'm afraid that's just not the reality right now.

Zach thought that the group probably would have made the summit the other day, as he didn't see any weather factors that would have turned them around. He said everyone was doing well and could have probably made it.

Let's keep our fingers crossed...

Another summit attempt

Today was another exciting day on the mountain for our team. Exciting and a bit scary.

The crew made another bid for the summit, but again stopped at Denali Pass, although this time it was not due to weather. One of the climbers, Stephan Jeromin, passed out at Denali Pass. He came to and then proceeded to vomit, so the team treated him as if he had High Altitude Cerebral Edema and worked together to get him safely back down to High Camp. I don't have all the details, but it sounds like everyone really banded together to help Stephan.

After arriving at High Camp, he recuperated a bit and with the supervision of one of our guides; he was able to descend the ridge and continue back down to Camp 3 at 14,200' unassisted. As I mentioned, I don't have all the details, but there is a medical tent at 14,200' and if Stephan requires it; he can get more definitive care at the camp.

Big mountains pose challenges to the individual and to the group. In this case, the group was faces with a challenge that I'm certain they recognized could jeopardize their summit chances, but they rose to the occasion and their teamwork helped make the best possible outcome of a potentially very bad situation.

I can't commend them all enough.

Summit attempt

The team awoke to clear skies and packed up to make a summit bid. Unfortunately, as they arrived at Denali Pass at 18,200' and got their first view of the summit proper, they found it shrouded by a thick lenticular cloud. Dave Staeheli, their lead guide, is familiar with these clouds and the high winds that they entail, so he turned the group around and they headed back to high camp.

Sure enough, in the afternoon, the winds picked up and plumes of snow were seen blowing off the upper plateau of the mountain. What appeared to be a good summit day had deteriorated into a windy gale.

They'll wake up early and try again tomorrow.

Think calm thoughts for the team!

Rest Day at High Camp

Climbers on the Autobahn a couple of weeks ago with Mount Foraker rising above the clouds in the distance. You can just make out high camp at the edge of the snowy plateau in the center of the photo.

I received word that yesterday the team took a rest/acclimatization day at high camp. The day spent moving up to camp is huge, so most teams plan on taking a rest day before attempting the summit.

I just looked at the TAT webcam (http://www.talkeetnaair.com/webcam/index.html) and it sure looks like a summit day! My guess is that they are making their way up the Autobahn as I type. The Autobahn is a long rising traverse which leads from high camp to Denali Pass at just over 18,000 feet. The name comes from some dark humor and refers to a German team which slipped while descending the traverse. Don't worry, our team will clip their ropes to a whole lot of snow pickets to avoid any such misshaps.

A view of Climbers on the Ridge

Here's a shot I took a couple of weeks ago of some climbers (little specs, left of center) on the ridge, en route to High Camp